Zodiac - un brand uitat pe nedrept

[Achraf]

ZODIAC este un brand care a produs o serie de ceasuri exceptionale.
Din cate stiu eu, cu putine exceptii sau deloc, au dezvoltat propriile calibre, insa au dezvoltat impreuna cu altii un mecanism high-beat de 36.000 vph si cronograful automatic ce are la baza Heuer 11/12.

O istorie a Zodiac:
sura: http://www.vintagezodiacs.com/Articles/History.htm

ZODIAC SA, Le Locle, Neuchatel, Geneve

Other company names: ARISTE CALAME, MONTRES ZODIAC, ARISTE CALAME FILS, MANUFACTURE D’HORLOGERIE "ZODIAC-CALAME CO.; ZODIAC WATCH CO.; New York, ZODIAC WATCH AGENCY, New York, ZODIAC WATCH CO.; ZODIAC, CALAME & CO.

Other brand and model names; AEROSPACE GMT, ARCALA, ASTROGRAPHIC, AUTOGRAPHIC, BARRISTER, BRIGHT, CLEBAR, COLORMAIC, CORSAIR, DARLING, DATO-GRAPHIC, DESERTMASTER, GLORIOUS, GOLDENLINE, GRACE, GUADSMAN, HOROSCOP, JET AERONAUT, LUCKY STAR, LUMINOUS, OLYMPOS, OLYMPUS, PHARAON, ROTOGRAPHIC, ROTOMATIC, SEA SKATE, SEAWOLF, SST, STAR-O-GRAPHIC, STEWARDESS, SUPER SEA WOLF, TIDY, ZODIAC-INCASECURIT, ZODIAC, ZODIAC SPORT

Trade marks: Cross in a circle



References:

American Horologist & Jeweler, Sep. 1974, p27 Boursin, Jean Paul, Les Fabraicants d’Holorgie Loclois 1785-1985, Chateau

Des Monts, Le Locle, 1986 (Bourdin) Brownman, Bernars U.,Jr., "Hermetic’ Watches: A Review," NAWCC Bulletin,

June 1944, Vol 36/3, p295 (Browman) Ehrhardt, Sherry, and Peter Planes, Vintage European and American Wrist Watch Price Guide, Heart of American Press, Kansas City MO, 1984 (Ehrhardt & Planes).

Fisher, A., "The First Two Wrist Watches Fitted with an Up-and-Down Indicator, "Journal Suisse d’Horlogerie et de Bijouterie, No. 5-6, 1949, p.157 (Fischer)

Fried, Henry, Letter, Horological Times, June 1984, p.331 (Fried).

Horological Journal, Jan, 1950, Vol.92, p.27 (HJ)

Journal Suisse d’Horlogerie et de Bijouterie, 1955, p.99, Obituary of Ariste Calame (JSH)

La Suisse Horolgere, 1974, No.4, p.49 (SH)

Quick Fit Swiss Material Systems, E. James Renz, New York, 1952 (Quick Fit).

History: Bowman said that Ariste Calame (1839-1917) first set up a workshop in 1864 in Cret-Vaillant The watch company was founded in 1882 by Ariste Calame. The original name of the company was Ariste Calame. It was a small workshop. A 1990 as said the began to specialize in sports watches. The name "Zodiac" was used early but was not registered until 1908. The founder’s son, Louis Ariste Calame, was sent to watchmaking school and then began to participate in the business in 1895. Under his direction the business Calame, took over the business that year. Members of the family given Bourdin are shown below.



Bowman said that the company gave up being a subcontractor for FAVREPERRET and became an exporter. In 1908-1911 it made its own calibers and employed about 50.

The company was listed in 1920 as Ariste Calame fils (the first Ariste Calame had died in 1917.) See ad below . In 1923 it was listed as Ariste Calame: Montres Zodiac, with wrist watches for men and pocket watches, plus an ad.



ZODIAC was imported in 1924 by the Eisenstadt Mfg. CO., St. Louis, MO.

Rene Calame, grandson of the founder joined the company and made commercial and technical changes. His father, the younger Ariste Calame, became one of the founder Presidents of the Federation Horlogere.

Bowman said the Zodiac-Sport was introduced; it was a 10 ½ ligne hermetic watch, not a table clock, in a leather-covered case, that could be opened and closed with one hand.

The company was listed in 1933-1935 in Le Locle and Geneva. The listings were accompanied by pictures of wrist watches labeled "unbreakable."



The Grace model was listed in 1940 and 1966.

The company exhibited at Basle in 1949 with the Datagraphic, a 12-ligne calendar with the moon phases, and the Autographic self-wind with visible power reserve indicator. A 1949 ad from the Zodiac Watch Agency, New York, for the Autographic called it a "new self-winding watch with a power reserve gauge." Fischer discussed this watch that year and so did SHJ in January, 1950. (See Up Down) The company exhibited again at Basle in 1950. An ad in 1950 was again for the self-winding. Autographic with up-and-down indicator.

During the last year of his life the son, Ariste Calame, organized and set up a new factory building in Le Locle which was opened in 1951.

The company was listed in 1951. Zodiac was listed by Quick Fit in 1952 as an American import using movements by ETA, A. SCHILD, LIENGME, and FONT.

A 1953 ad was for the Autographic, "famous for Reserve Power Gauge, amazing rotor action, automatic."

A 1955 ad from the ZODIAC WATCH AGENCY, New York ( a division of Edward Trauner Inc.) said " The world’s most modern watch," referring to the ZODIAC Autographic, which sold for 71.50 in a stainless case, 89.50 in a gold-filled case. It was a self-wind with a power reserve power gauge, 17 jewels, water and shock resistant, anti-magnetic, unbreakable crystal, radium dial, with a sweep seconds. It was the official watch of the Swiss Federal Railways.

The second Ariste Calame died in 1955, aged 80. He was then president of the Board of Director of the company (JSH). (See A Death in the Family.)

ZODIAC was imported to the UK in 1959 by E.A. Combs, London, and again in 1963 by E.A. Combos Clocks Ltd.

A 1966 ad in the Los Angeles Times was for the Barrister wrist, Cal. 1305, in 14K gold, for $200.

The company was listed in 1966 as ZODIAC SA.

The company exhibited at Basle in 1972 with a wrist watch with a dial of the same gold texture as the bracelet.

There was a two-page ad in Modern Jeweler, October 1972, for ZODIAC, illustrating the SST Astographic which had no hands; instead, two revolving satellites and a red moon indicated the time. SST meant "Split Second Timing. The watch was an automatic and calendar, shock and water-resist. The ad said "Americans best selling underwater watch…..Astographic introduced one year ago….no hands styling….talking display box." This watch was imported to the US in 1972 by Edward Trauner Inc. "largest importer of chronographs."

There was an ad in 1973 for the SST Astographic.

The company was listed in 1973 with a battery-operated watch and Tidy.

In 1974 AH&J illustrated ZODIAC’s new diving watch, the Super Sea Wolf, pressurized to 2500 feet, with a bezel for elapsed time read-outs. In 1974 the company also introduced an LCD and new models, slim wrist watches in yellow gold, the man’s a self wind.

The company was listed in 1975 with Rotomatic and six new calibers.

In 1979 MONTRES ZODIAC SA was listed as part of the GROUPE DIXIMECHANIQUE .

Fried said in 1984 that ZODIAC-CALAME CO. owned the Guardsman label making Time Recorders, and that movements for them were made by the RECTA WATCH CO.

In 1990 the address of the ZODIAC-CALAME COMPANY was care of PAUL BUHRE in Le Locle but the ZODIAC WATCH COMPANY was still in New York. In the 1990’s ZODIAC watches were being produced by ZODIAC SA in Neuchatel.

A watch was placed in the Arthur Collection at the NAWCC Museum marked "Ariste Calame."

Erhardt & Planes showed six Clebar wrist watches, all from ca 1957: five chronographs with radium silvered dials, subsidiary seconds, 17 jewels, in round stainless steel cases, one with 30 minute and 12 hour recorded, two waterproof, two with outer tachometer ring, one a calendar with day and month windows and outer date ring, one a moonphase calendar with day and month windows with outer date ring; and an alarm waterproof with radium silvered dial, alarm hand, center seconds, 17 jewels, in a round case, steel or 10K gold-filled.

* This information was supplied to me by the JSH and came from a book entitled "Swiss Timepiece Makers, 1775-1975" by Kathleen H. Pritchard.

[Achraf]

Odata facuta introducerea, sa spun ca unele dintre cele mai cautate modele sunt Astrographic, Glorious, Olympos si cel care foloseste ca mecanism de baza cronograful cu micro-rotor tip Heuer 11/12.
Parca s-a mai discutat la un moment dat pe forum despre Zodiac - Lucian si Galaxy prezentand cateva ceasuri, sper sa nu ma insel.

O sa incep prezentarea cu Zodiac Chronograph Automatic (Zodiac 90; Heuer 12) varul "mai sarac" al lui Heuer Carrera (din cate stiu eu mecanismul a mai fost folosit si de Breitling, Bulova, Hamilton, Buren si chiar Dugena; Dr. Ranfft ne spune urmatoarele: "Zodiac 90 - the same with Heuer 12 Chronomatic (Buren 1282) produced since 1969 as a joint development of Hamilton-Buren, Breitling and Heuer")


















Ceasul ar fi fot NOS daca cineva nu ar fi incercat (fara succes) sa desfaca cu o unealta nepotrivita capacul spate ...

Ceasul:
Mecanismul Zodiac 90
17 Jewels
f = 21600 A/h
13.75'''
Dm= 31.00mm
H= 7.70mm

Carcasa:
43.0 mm
lug-to-lug 39.0 mm
thickness: 13.5 x 15.5 mm (da, la anse este mai inalt!)
Band: 20 mm
All Stainless Steel

precizie: aprox. + 5 sec/ zi

[iEdi]

Excelent acest Zodiac cronograf. Cu toate ca pozele sunt super, pot afirma cu tarie ca in realitate arata mult mai bine !

Multumim pentru poze ! Sa il stapanesti sanatos !

[t_A_v007]

Nu-mi vine sa cred ce zgarietura are pe spate... Am mai vazut zgarieturi, dar asta este atat de adanca... Cu ce a incercat sa o deschida? Ranga?

[Zar]

Pot fi multiple instrumente : subler, foarfeca etc. Inclusiv o cheie speciala pt. capace dar uzata sau slaba tehnic la care se adauga daca a fost foarte tare strans (''la cotor'') sau nedesfacut mult timp - implica uneori sa scape din fante si automat zgarieturi. Conteaza foarte mult si mana care a desfacut...

[kixx05]

am mai vazut asa urme .... de obicei apar cand nu ai o cheie speciala pt capac cu filet si incerci sa invarti capacul doar dintr-un punct cu o surubelnita sau ceva de genul si sare din locas (asa a incercat sa-mi deschida mie ceasornicarul de la magazin un q&q superior pt o schimbare de baterie .... si la final mi-am luat banii inapoi.. nu am acceptat sa-l primesc asa pt ca zgariase si carcasa (ceasul era din vitrina dar avea bateria consumata - asa sustineau ei))
p.s. superb zodiacul ... dar nici heuer nu e pe departe

[mnm]

Nu-mi vine sa cred ce zgarietura are pe spate... Am mai vazut zgarieturi, dar asta este atat de adanca... Cu ce a incercat sa o deschida? Ranga?

Nu sunt de meserie (cu ranga) dar banuiesc ca a incercat cu un shubler (instrument de masurat cote la precizie de 0,1 mm std) pe care la manuit din mana . Daca ar fi fixat shublerul in menghina (scula nerecomandata la desfacut ceasuri) nu ar fi lasat asa cicatrice pe capac...

[Zar]

La acest tip de carcasa si altele similare care nu au anse in prelungire, daca capacul e foarte tare strans si nu se poate desface in mana si daca nu ai suport special reglabil, poate fi prinsa in menghina, in prealabil se pun obligatoriu 2 benzi din cauciuc (daca menghina nu are aceste accesorii in dotare) si apoi se desface dar numai cu cheie speciala - preferabil in 3 puncte.
Se mai pune 1 bucata din cauciuc deasupra axului menghinei, in caz ca scapa in jos din stransoare sa nu fie afectat geamul.

[galaxy]

Multumim Achraf pentru imagini si istoria Zodiac.
Sunt ceasuri cu mecanisme foarte bine finisate.

[Achraf]

multumesc pt aprecieri.
Intradevar, zgarietura de pe capac e tare urata si nu mai poate fi scoasa in vreun fel. O polishare adanca nu ar face decat sa stearga marcajele de pe spate.
Edi are dreptate - ceasul este mm frumos in realitate (el chiar a avut ocayia sa-l vada). Intre timp geamul a suferit un polish fin si arata bine.

Cred ca inainte de a posta un nou Zodiac ar fi indicat sa postez - pt comparatie - si Heuer Carrera (care are geamul de safir).
Dar un pic mai tarziu, caci acum am ceva treaba

[Zar]

Se poate incerca o polishare usoara/superficiala la capac atat incat sa nu stearga marcajele originale si sa mai reduca din adancimea zgarieturilor. Dar e cam riscant, mai bine il lasi asa cum este acum.

[Achraf]

Zodiac Chronograph NOS (Valjoux 92)

Un zodiac frumos, in stare NOS, cu un mecanism dragutz.















Ce zice Dr. Ranfft despre mecanism:
Valjoux 92

Features
manual-wind chronograph, 60s, 30/45min, pillar wheel
sub second

Data
13''', Dm= 29.5mm, H= 6mm
17 jewels
f = 18000 A/h
power-reserve 39h

Crcasa are 36 mm in diametru. De mers merge f bine ... asa ca nu-mi doresc decat sa-l port sanatos ... duminica ... la biserica!

[Achraf]

Zodiac Automatic SST 36000 (Zodiac 86)

A venit randul unui monstru - pt ca acest Zodiac este mare si greu (aproape 200g!!!)
Are un High Beat sub carapace, asa ca inima ii bate strasnic si cu precizie!
















Ce spune Dr. Ranfft:

Zodiac 86

Features
automatic
sweep second
day
date: quickset by repeated pushing the crown
hack feature

Data
11.5''', Dm= 25.6mm, H= 5.7mm
17/21 jewels
f = 36000 A/h
power reserve 40h

Remarks
Triovis micrometer regulator
The calibre is based on the manual wind calibre AS 1687/1688.
The automatic mechanism is a joint development of Doxa, Eberhard, Favre-Leuba, Girard-Perregaux, and Zodiac.

[iEdi]

Un ceas cel putin spectaculos (si la propriu si la figurat) ! Felicitari !

[Achraf]

ASA ESTE EDI (SCUZE CA RASPUND CU INTARZIERE ), Zodiacul respectiv este destul de impunator si chiar si azi face fatza exigentelor de marime foarte trendy in acest moment (unele ceasuri sunt atat de mari ca arata ca niste chiftele; eu ii suspectez pe unii ca economisesc astfel banii de mers la sala, si mai fac "biceps" din cand in cand!)
Problema la acel ceas este ca bratara nu este ajutabila, iar pt mina mea este de-a dreptul urias. Dar cine-a zis ca trebuie neaparat sa-l port?

Zodiac a utilizat nu foarte multe mecanisme, insa a venit cu o multime de designuri, care mai de care mai atractive (cam ce face - pastrand proportiile - PP in momentul de fatza).
Cred ca cele mai cautate modele de la ei sunt Sea Wolf, Astrographic si Olympos.
Cum nu ma dau in "salupe" dupa divere, am alergat cu limba scoasa dupa un Astrographic (si fiind mai la inceput si mai mult entuziasmat decat documentat mi-am luat unul re-edition, frumusel, dar cu ETA!!!) si un Olympos.

Azi e randul la Olympos pentru prezentare.
Este echipat cu calibrul 70, un automatic 17 Jewels f = 21600 A/h 11.5''' Dm= 25.60mm H= 4.80mm. Hack feature. Regulation gear. The calibre is based on the manual wind calibre AS 1687/1688. The automatic mechanism is a joint development of Doxa, Eberhard, Favre-Leuba, Girard-Perregaux, and Zodiac

Carcasa are o forma foarte intersanta si este All SS, coronita fiind plasata la ora 14. Spre deosebire de Astrographic unde aratatoarele plutesc (floating hands), aici doar orarul pluteste, minutarul si secundarul fiind clasice.

What else ... aaa ... za pictures!